Cabo Verde

Cabo Verde – ten volcanic islands scattered across the Atlantic Ocean 570 kilometers off the West African coast – is a nation built on "saudade," that uniquely Portuguese concept of melancholic longing that infuses everything from the haunting morna music to the welcoming spirit of its people.

Discovered uninhabited by Portuguese explorers around 1456, these islands became a crucial waystation in the Atlantic slave trade, creating a unique Creole culture blending African and European influences. Today, Cabo Verde is one of Africa's most stable democracies and a growing tourism destination known for its beaches, music, and volcanic landscapes.

The archipelago divides into two groups: the windward Barlavento islands (Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia, São Nicolau, Sal, and Boa Vista) and the leeward Sotavento islands (Maio, Santiago, Fogo, and Brava). Each island has distinct character – from the desert beaches of Sal and Boa Vista to the dramatic volcanic crater of Fogo, from the cultural capital of Mindelo to the hiking paradise of Santo Antão.

With one UNESCO World Heritage Site (Cidade Velha), world-class kitesurfing, authentic Creole culture, and the spirit of Cesária Évora echoing through seaside bars, Cabo Verde offers Atlantic adventures far from mass tourism.

Cabo Verde's ten islands (nine inhabited) emerged from volcanic activity on the African tectonic plate. The archipelago spans roughly 4,033 km² of land across a vast ocean area. The islands vary dramatically in landscape and character.

Windward Islands (Barlavento): Sal and Boa Vista are flat, desert-like islands with stunning beaches – the tourism hotspots. São Vicente hosts Mindelo, the cultural capital. Santo Antão offers dramatic mountains and hiking. São Nicolau is quiet and traditional.

Leeward Islands (Sotavento): Santiago is the largest and most African island, home to the capital Praia. Fogo rises to 2,829 meters at Pico do Fogo, an active volcano that last erupted in 2014. Brava is known for flowers and emigration to the US. Maio remains largely undeveloped.

Climate: Tropical dry with two seasons: the hot, humid season (July-October) and the dry, windy season (November-June). The harmattan wind from the Sahara can bring dust and haze. Average temperatures range from 20-29°C year-round. Water temperature stays warm at 22-27°C.

Best Time to Visit: November-June offers dry weather and good winds for water sports. July-October is warmer and occasionally rainy on mountainous islands.

Discovery (1456-1462): Portuguese explorers found the uninhabited islands around 1456. Settlement began on Santiago in 1462. Ribeira Grande (now Cidade Velha) became the first European city in the tropics.

Slave Trade Era: For centuries, Cabo Verde served as a vital waystation in the Atlantic slave trade. Enslaved Africans from the mainland were held here before transport to the Americas. This brutal history created Cabo Verde's unique Creole culture – a blend of Portuguese colonizers and enslaved Africans.

Colonial Struggles: Recurring droughts caused devastating famines – an estimated 200,000 people died between 1941-1948 alone while the Portuguese colonial government exported food. This suffering fueled independence movements.

Independence (1975): Amílcar Cabral, born in Guinea-Bissau to Cabo Verdean parents, led the independence struggle. He was assassinated in 1973, but Cabo Verde gained independence on July 5, 1975. Initially united with Guinea-Bissau, the countries separated in 1980.

Modern Era: Since transitioning to multiparty democracy in 1991, Cabo Verde has become one of Africa's most stable and prosperous nations. Tourism, remittances from the diaspora, and international aid drive the economy.

Cabo Verdeans are predominantly Creole (mestiço) – mixed African and European heritage shaped by centuries of cultural blending. About 600,000 people live on the islands, but the diaspora is larger: perhaps 700,000 Cabo Verdeans live abroad, primarily in the United States (especially Massachusetts and Rhode Island), Portugal, the Netherlands, and France.

Language: Portuguese is the official language, but Kriolu (Cape Verdean Creole) is the true mother tongue, spoken in daily life. Each island has its own Kriolu variation. The phrase "Morabeza" captures the famed Cabo Verdean hospitality and warmth.

Religion: Predominantly Roman Catholic (77%), with Protestant minorities and syncretic practices blending African traditions.

Saudade: This Portuguese concept of melancholic longing permeates Cabo Verdean culture. It reflects the history of emigration, separation from loved ones, drought, and colonial hardship – but also a deep appreciation for home, tradition, and human connection. You hear it in morna music; you feel it in seaside conversations.

Diaspora Connection: Emigration has defined Cabo Verde for centuries. Those who leave maintain strong ties to their islands. Remittances are economically vital; "no kaza" (homecoming) visits are culturally essential. Many Cabo Verdeans describe themselves as having "one foot here, one foot there."

Sal is Cabo Verde's tourism engine – a flat, desert island transformed by international flights and all-inclusive resorts. Named for its historic salt extraction, the island now trades white gold for sun-seeking tourists.

Santa Maria: This beach town on the southern tip is Sal's heart. A 4-kilometer stretch of golden sand meets turquoise waters, lined with restaurants, shops, and watersports operators. The town retains some charm despite development.

Pedra de Lume: An extinct volcanic crater where natural salt pans have been harvested since 1804. Visitors can float in the super-salty water – denser than the Dead Sea.

Watersports: Sal is world-class for kitesurfing and windsurfing, particularly from November to May when trade winds blow consistently. Ponta Preta and Kite Beach draw international riders. Diving and snorkeling reveal sharks, rays, and sea turtles.

Reality Check: Sal is the most developed and touristy island. It offers convenience and beaches but less authentic Cabo Verde culture than other islands.

Boa Vista – "Good View" – is Sal's quieter sibling: more beaches, fewer crowds, and dramatic desert landscapes. This is the closest Cabo Verde gets to the Sahara, with dunes rolling into the Atlantic.

Beaches: Praia de Santa Mónica and Praia de Chaves rank among the world's finest – vast crescents of sand with few footprints. Praia da Varandinha is backed by dramatic cliffs. Sea turtles nest on eastern beaches from July to October.

Viana Desert: Sand dunes blown from the Sahara create an otherworldly landscape in the island's interior. ATV tours explore the desert, abandoned villages, and coastal cliffs.

Sal Rei: The laid-back capital offers colorful buildings, a few restaurants, and genuine local life away from the resorts. The daily fish market is worth visiting.

Note: Boa Vista is developing rapidly. It offers more space and natural beauty than Sal but similar resort-oriented tourism.

Santiago is Cabo Verde's largest and most African island – the historical heart where Creole culture was born. Here you'll find the capital Praia, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cidade Velha, and a more authentic (if grittier) Cabo Verde experience than the beach islands.

Praia: The capital city of 150,000 is chaotic, congested, and challenging but rewards exploration. The Plateau (Platô) historic center features colonial architecture. Sucupira Market pulses with African energy – textiles, produce, and noise. The waterfront promenade offers restaurants and Atlantic views.

Cidade Velha (UNESCO): Just 15 km from Praia, this former capital was the first European city built in the tropics. The "Pillory" (Pelourinho) where enslaved people were punished stands as a haunting reminder of the slave trade. The 16th-century Fortaleza Real de São Filipe overlooks the bay. The UNESCO site preserves this painful but crucial history.

Interior Santiago: The mountainous interior offers hiking, traditional villages, and the Serra Malagueta Natural Park. The contrast with beach-resort Cabo Verde is striking.

Fogo – "Fire" – is Cabo Verde's most dramatic island, dominated by the active Pico do Fogo volcano rising 2,829 meters from the Atlantic. The island is essentially a massive volcanic cone with people living on its flanks and inside its crater.

Chã das Caldeiras: Inside the ancient collapsed crater, at 1,700 meters elevation, two villages (Portela and Bangaeira) house about 1,000 people who cultivate grapes for wine, grow vegetables, and guide tourists up the volcano. The 2014-2015 eruption destroyed much of these villages, but residents rebuilt.

Climbing Pico do Fogo: The 6-hour round trip to the summit is challenging but rewarding. Volcanic cones, lava flows, and sulfurous vents mark the ascent. The crater rim offers views across the caldeira and Atlantic. Guides are mandatory.

Fogo Wine: Volcanic soil and high altitude produce unique wines – particularly the "Manecom" label grown inside the crater. Wine tasting combines with volcano visits.

São Filipe: Fogo's capital features well-preserved sobrado houses (colonial mansions) and a more traditional atmosphere than tourist islands.

São Vicente is Cabo Verde's cultural heart, home to Mindelo – the archipelago's most charming and culturally vibrant city. This is where Cesária Évora was born, where morna music fills the night air, and where carnival rivals Brazil's for enthusiasm if not scale.

Mindelo: With 70,000 residents, Mindelo is Cabo Verde's second city but feels like its first in terms of culture. Colonial architecture lines the harbor. Music bars (botecos) feature live morna and coladeira. Art galleries, cafés, and a sophisticated atmosphere make this the island for culture seekers.

Music Scene: Mindelo's bars come alive at night. Casa da Morna, the center named for Cesária Évora, celebrates the city's musical heritage. Local musicians play nightly in casual venues – an intimate experience far from stadium concerts.

Carnival: February/March brings carnival celebrations that Mindelenses claim are the best in Africa. Parades, costumes, and all-night parties transform the city.

Beaches: São Vicente has some beaches, but most visitors use it as a gateway to Santo Antão's mountains. Ferries run frequently between the two islands.

Santo Antão is Cabo Verde's hiking paradise – a mountainous island where dramatic valleys, traditional villages, and ancient trails offer some of the finest trekking in the Atlantic. The contrast with desert Sal or Boa Vista is startling.

Paul Valley: This lush valley descends from 1,500 meters to sea level through banana plantations, sugarcane, and terraced agriculture. The hiking trail from Cova crater to Paul is legendary – five hours descending through changing landscapes.

Ribeira Grande: The valley of Ribeira Grande carves deep into volcanic rock. Hiking trails connect villages accessible only on foot. This is traditional Cabo Verde – terraced farms, stone houses, and warm hospitality.

The Road: The dramatic coastal road from Porto Novo to Ribeira Grande (and formerly Ponta do Sol) ranks among the world's most spectacular drives – clinging to cliffs above the Atlantic.

Grogue: Santo Antão is famous for grogue (sugarcane rum), produced in small distilleries called trapiches. Visiting a trapiche and tasting fresh grogue is a quintessential island experience.

Cabo Verdean cuisine blends African, Portuguese, and Brazilian influences into hearty dishes suited to island life. Corn, beans, and fresh seafood form the foundation.

Cachupa

National Stew

Hearty stew of corn, beans, and meat—Cabo Verde's soul food. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 240ml hominy corn, 120ml beans, mixed varieties, 200g pork or sausage, 1 sweet potato, 1 banana, Cabbage, Bay leaf.

Preparation: Soak corn and beans overnight. Simmer with meat until almost tender. Add sweet potato and banana. Then cook until everything is soft. Mash slightly for thick texture. Last, serve topped with fried egg.

💡 Rich cachupa uses meat; poor cachupa is vegetarian.

Caldo de Peixe

Fish Stew

Fresh fish stew with tomatoes and banana—island home cooking. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: 300g firm white fish, 2 tomatoes, 1 green banana, 1 potato, 1 onion, Cilantro, Garlic, bay leaf.

Preparation: Sautingé onion and garlic. Add tomatoes, cook down. Add potatoes, banana, water. Then simmer until almost tender. Add fish, cook 10 min. Finish with cilantro.

💡 The green banana adds starch to thicken the broth.

Pastéis de Atum

Tuna Turnovers

Crispy pastries filled with spiced tuna—popular snack. This recipe serves two.

Ingredients: For dough: 480ml flour, butter, water, For filling: 1 can tuna, onion, tomato, olives, egg, Oil for frying.

Preparation: Make pastry dough, rest. Sauté filling ingredients. Roll dough, cut circles. Then fill and fold into half-moons. Deep fry until golden. Drain and serve hot.

💡 Seal edges well or they'll open during frying.

Cachupa: The national dish – a slow-cooked stew of corn, beans, and vegetables, often with fish or meat. Cachupa rica (rich cachupa) includes sausage, bacon, and more protein. Cachupa guisado is fried leftover cachupa. Every household has its own recipe.

Seafood: Fresh fish is abundant – tuna, wahoo, grouper, lobster. Buzio (sea snail) is a local delicacy. Caldeirada de peixe (fish stew) features heavily. Seafood restaurants line the coasts.

Drinks: Grogue (sugarcane rum) is the spirit of choice, often mixed with honey as ponche. Strela is the local beer. Portuguese wine is widely available. Fresh fruit juices from mango, papaya, and passion fruit refresh.

Sweets: Doce de coco (coconut sweet), doce de papaia, and Portuguese-influenced pastries satisfy sweet cravings.

Music is Cabo Verde's greatest cultural export. The islands have produced sounds that traveled the world, most notably through Cesária Évora, the "Barefoot Diva" who brought morna to global audiences.

Morna: This melancholic genre expresses saudade – longing for distant loved ones, lost homelands, unrequited love. Guitar, violin, and piano accompany poetic lyrics in Kriolu. Mindelo is morna's spiritual home.

Coladeira: The upbeat counterpart to morna – faster, danceable, celebrating life rather than lamenting. Modern coladeira incorporates electronic elements.

Funaná: Originating in Santiago, this African-influenced genre features accordion and ferrinho (scraped metal). Once banned under Portuguese rule as too African, it's now celebrated as authentic Cabo Verdean expression.

Cesária Évora (1941-2011): Born in Mindelo, "Cize" performed barefoot as solidarity with the poor. Her 1992 album "Miss Perfumado" brought morna to world music audiences. She won a Grammy in 2004. Her memory is everywhere in Mindelo.

Cabo Verde — the volcanic archipelago 570 km off West Africa's coast — has a drinking culture shaped by its unique Creole identity: part Portuguese, part West African, wholly its own. The national spirit is grogue (or grogu) — sugarcane rum distilled in traditional trapiches (horse-powered cane presses) on the island of Santo Antão. Grogue is to Cabo Verde what rum is to the Caribbean and cachaça is to Brazil: the national soul in a bottle.

🥃 Grogue — The Island Spirit

Santo Antão island, with its dramatic volcanic valleys and terraced sugarcane fields, is the heart of grogue production. The traditional trapiche — a stone or wooden mill powered by a horse or donkey walking in circles — crushes the cane; the juice ferments naturally and is distilled in copper pot stills. The best artisanal grogue is smooth, slightly sweet, and carries the mineral character of volcanic soil. Pontinha and aged grogu varieties are increasingly refined. Industrial versions, however, can be rough.

Ponche — grogue infused with honey, lime, and cinnamon — is the archipelago's signature cocktail, served at every party, feast, and family gathering. Strela is the national beer, a light lager perfect for the climate.

🎵 Morna & Grogue — Inseparable

Cabo Verde's legendary music — morna (the melancholic song of saudade, longing, and the sea, immortalised by Cesária Évora) and funaná (the wild, accordion-driven dance music of Santiago) — is inseparable from grogue. Every bar in Mindelo plays live morna; every performance is fuelled by ponche. Évora herself was called the "Barefoot Diva" because she performed barefoot, grogue in hand, voice full of the Atlantic wind. The connection between music, spirits, and the ache of islands is Cabo Verde's defining cultural experience.

Ponche in Mindelo · Grogue and honey-lime ponche at a harbour bar, Mindelo's pastel waterfront, fishing boats, the Atlantic beyond. Cesária Évora's city, her drink, her music drifting from the doorway.

Getting There: International airports on Sal (SID), Boa Vista (BVC), Praia (RAI), and São Vicente (VXE). Direct flights from Europe (TAP, TUI, Transavia), with connections via Lisbon. Domestic flights (Binter) and ferries (CV Interilhas) connect islands.

Visa: Many nationalities require visas. E-visa available online or visa on arrival at airports. Check current requirements before travel.

Money: Cabo Verdean Escudo (CVE). 1 EUR ≈ 110 CVE (fixed rate). Euros widely accepted in tourist areas. ATMs available on main islands. Credit cards accepted at hotels and resorts; cash essential elsewhere.

Transport: Island-hopping requires planning. Domestic flights are efficient but limited. Ferries are cheaper but weather-dependent and less frequent. Taxis and aluguer (shared minibuses) serve local transport. Car rental available on larger islands.

Health: No major health risks. Tap water is generally safe on main islands. Malaria is not present. Bring sun protection – the tropical sun is intense.

Safety: Cabo Verde is one of Africa's safest countries. Normal precautions apply. Petty theft occurs in tourist areas. Beaches can have strong currents.

Daily Budget: Backpacker €30-50, Mid-range €60-100, Comfortable €120-200.

Cabo Verde has one UNESCO World Heritage Site:

Cidade Velha, Historic Centre of Ribeira Grande (2009): The first European colonial outpost in the tropics and a crucial node in the Atlantic slave trade. Founded in 1462, Ribeira Grande became the first city built by Europeans in sub-Saharan Africa.

The site preserves remnants of this dark history: the Pillory (Pelourinho) where enslaved Africans were punished, the ruins of the Sé Cathedral (first cathedral in West Africa), and the Fortaleza Real de São Filipe overlooking the bay. Walking the quiet streets today, it's hard to imagine this was once one of the Atlantic's most important trading posts.

Cidade Velha is a place for reflection – on colonialism, the slave trade, and the origins of the Creole culture that defines Cabo Verde today. It lies just 15 km from Praia on Santiago island.