🍽️ Cuisine
Saint Pierre and Miquelon, France's only remaining territory in North America, sits just off the coast of Newfoundland. These windswept islands preserve the cuisine of Basque and Breton fishermen who've worked these waters for centuries—hearty seafood dishes built to sustain workers through long, cold days on the Grand Banks.
Cotriade
Breton Fish Stew
The fisherman's stew of Saint Pierre—a Breton tradition brought across the Atlantic, made with whatever the day's catch brings in. Unlike bouillabaisse, cotriade uses Atlantic fish and potatoes, substantial fare for cold northern waters.
Ingredients: 500g mixed firm fish (cod, halibut, mackerel), cut in chunks, 300g potatoes, thickly sliced, 1 onion, sliced, 2 leeks, white parts sliced, 3 cloves garlic, crushed, 1 bay leaf, 3 sprigs thyme, 500ml fish stock or water, 200ml dry white wine, 2 tbsp butter, Fresh parsley, Salt and pepper.
Preparation: Melt butter in large heavy pot. Add onion and leeks, cook gently until softened, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, cook 1 minute more. Layer potato slices over onions. Add bay leaf, thyme, wine, and stock—liquid should just cover potatoes. Bring to boil, reduce heat, simmer until potatoes are almost tender, about 15 minutes. Lay fish pieces on top of potatoes. Cover, simmer gently 10-12 minutes until fish is just cooked through—don't stir or the fish will break up. Season carefully with salt and pepper. Ladle into deep bowls, ensuring each portion gets potatoes and different types of fish. Scatter with parsley. Serve with crusty bread rubbed with garlic.
💡 Use at least three different types of fish—the variety of textures and flavors is what makes cotriade special.
Morue à la Basquaise
Basque-Style Salt Cod
Salt cod with peppers, tomatoes, and Espelette—a Basque preparation that traveled to Saint Pierre with Basque fishermen centuries ago. The preserved cod that built the islands' fortune returns to the table in this colorful dish.
Ingredients: 400g salt cod, 1 red bell pepper, sliced, 1 green bell pepper, sliced, 1 onion, sliced, 4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped, 4 cloves garlic, sliced, 1 tsp Espelette pepper (or mild chili), 100ml olive oil, 1 bay leaf, Fresh parsley, Black pepper.
Preparation: Soak salt cod 24-48 hours in cold water, changing water at least 4 times—properly desalted cod should taste pleasantly salty, not briny. Drain, cut into large pieces, remove any bones. Heat olive oil in wide pan. Cook onion and peppers slowly over medium-low heat until very soft, about 20 minutes—this isn't a sauté, it's a gentle confit. Add garlic and Espelette, cook 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and bay leaf, simmer until sauce thickens, about 15 minutes. Nestle cod pieces into the vegetable mixture. Cover, cook gently 15 minutes until cod flakes easily. Don't stir—shake the pan instead to prevent sticking. Finish with fresh parsley and black pepper. Serve directly from the pan with good bread.
💡 The quality of salt cod varies enormously—seek out thick, creamy-colored pieces from Portugal or Norway.
Far Breton
Prune Custard Cake
A dense, custardy cake studded with rum-soaked prunes—the classic dessert of Brittany that remains a staple in Saint Pierre. Halfway between flan and cake, far breton is rustic comfort food for cold northern evenings.
Ingredients: 150g pitted prunes, 3 tbsp dark rum, 100g flour, 100g sugar, Pinch salt, 3 eggs, 400ml whole milk, 50g butter, melted, 1 tsp vanilla extract.
Preparation: Soak prunes in rum at least 2 hours, overnight is better—they should be plump and fragrant. Whisk flour, sugar, and salt together. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each. Gradually whisk in milk until smooth—batter should be thin, like crêpe batter. Stir in melted butter and vanilla. Let batter rest 1 hour at room temperature. Butter a baking dish generously. Arrange soaked prunes in single layer. Pour batter over prunes—they'll sink and float, distributing throughout. Bake at 180°C for 45-50 minutes until set and golden on top, slightly jiggly in center. Cool to room temperature before serving—far breton is best at room temperature or even cold the next day, when the texture becomes more dense and custardy.
💡 The batter must rest—this allows the flour to hydrate fully, creating the proper dense texture.
