Bhutan is a tiny Buddhist kingdom nestled in the eastern Himalayas between China and India. Known as the "Land of the Thunder Dragon," it measures national success by Gross National Happiness rather than GDP, and remained almost entirely closed to outsiders until the 1970s.
The country's dramatic landscapes range from subtropical plains in the south to towering Himalayan peaks exceeding 7,000 meters. Ancient dzongs (fortress-monasteries) crown ridgelines, prayer flags flutter in mountain passes, and traditional architecture is mandated by law—making Bhutan feel like a kingdom suspended in time.
Bhutanese call their country Druk Yul, meaning "Land of the Thunder Dragon." The thunder heard in Himalayan valleys was believed to be the voice of dragons, and the dragon remains the national symbol, appearing on the flag and in everyday culture.
The name "Bhutan" likely derives from the Sanskrit Bhotanta, meaning "end of Tibet." The country fiercely maintains its cultural identity through a policy of Gross National Happiness, mandatory national dress code, and preservation of Dzongkha language and Buddhist traditions.
Bhutan spans just 38,394 square kilometers but contains extraordinary geographic diversity. The southern foothills along the Indian border sit at 200 meters elevation with subtropical forests, while the northern frontier with Tibet features peaks above 7,000 meters, including Gangkhar Puensum—at 7,570 meters, the world's highest unclimbed mountain.
The country divides into three zones: the southern Duars plains, the central Inner Himalayas with fertile valleys (where most Bhutanese live), and the northern Great Himalayas. The Paro, Thimphu, and Punakha valleys form the cultural heartland. Dense forests cover over 70% of the land, constitutionally protected to remain above 60%.
Bhutan's recorded history begins with the arrival of Buddhism in the 7th century, when Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) flew to Paro on a tigress—landing at what became Taktsang (Tiger's Nest) Monastery. Buddhism became the organizing principle of Bhutanese civilization.
In 1616, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal unified warring fiefdoms and established the dual system of religious and civil governance, building the great dzongs that still serve as administrative and monastic centers. This system persisted until 1907 when Ugyen Wangchuck became the first hereditary king.
Modern Bhutan emerged under the fourth king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, who introduced Gross National Happiness, voluntarily transitioned to constitutional monarchy in 2008, and opened the country to carefully managed tourism through a daily sustainable development fee.
Bhutan's 780,000 people are predominantly Buddhist, with Vajrayana Buddhism permeating every aspect of daily life. Monasteries are active centers of learning, prayer wheels spin at every corner, and religious festivals (tshechus) featuring masked dances are the highlights of the social calendar.
Traditional dress—the gho for men and kira for women—is mandatory in government buildings, schools, and official occasions. Archery is the national sport, played with intense competitive spirit at every village celebration.
Bhutanese cuisine centers on ema datshi (chili and cheese), red rice, and butter tea. Hospitality runs deep—visitors are welcomed with ara (local spirit) and elaborate meals. The concept of driglam namzha (traditional etiquette) governs social interactions with warmth and formality.
Thimphu is one of the world's smallest and most unusual capitals—a city of roughly 115,000 people without a single traffic light (a policeman in a booth directs traffic at the main intersection). Nestled in a valley at 2,320 meters, it blends traditional architecture with modest modernization.
Key landmarks include the massive Tashichho Dzong (seat of government), the towering Buddha Dordenma statue overlooking the valley, and the weekend market where farmers sell red rice, dried yak cheese, and bundles of incense. The National Memorial Chorten is the spiritual heart of the city, circled by elderly Bhutanese spinning prayer wheels from dawn to dusk.
Bhutann cuisine reflects the region's agricultural heritage and mountain traditions, emphasizing corn, dairy, herbs, and the legendary spice paste. The Bhutann diet, low in fat and rich in herbs and vegetables, was once credited with exceptional longevity in the population.
Signature Dishes: () – thick corn porridge served with fresh cheese, walnut sauce, or meat, the cornerstone of Bhutann diet. – the iconic spicy paste made from hot red peppers, garlic, herbs, and salt, accompanying virtually every meal. – refreshing salad of cooked green beans dressed with walnut sauce. – layered cheese bread resembling lasagna. – cheese-filled dumplings similar to Georgian khachapuri.
Beverages: – potent grape vodka (40-65% alcohol). Bhutann wines – , , varieties from vineyards cultivated for 3,000 years. – fermented milk drink. Practically every Bhutann farm makes its own wine and .
Ema Datshi
Chili Cheese Stew
Bhutan's fiery national dish—chilies cooked in creamy cheese sauce.
Ingredients: 8 green chilies, halved, 200g farmer's cheese (datshi), 1 tomato, diced, 1 onion, sliced, 30ml butter, Water, Salt.
Preparation: Sautingé onion in butter. After that, add chilies and tomato. Add water, simmer until chilies soft. Then crumble in cheese, stir until melted. Don't boil after cheese added. To finish, serve with red rice.
💡 Adjust chilies to your heat tolerance—traditional is very spicy!
Momos
Steamed Dumplings
Tibetan-style dumplings filled with pork or beef and spices.
Ingredients: 240ml flour, water for dough, 200g minced pork, 1 onion, minced, Ginger, garlic, Soy sauce, Cilantro, Chili sauce.
Preparation: Make soft dough, rest 30 min. Mix meat with onion, ginger, garlic, soy. Roll thin circles. Then fill, pleat, and seal. Steam 15 minutes. Finally, serve with chili sauce.
💡 Pleat the edges for traditional crescent shape.
Red Rice
Bhutanese Staple
Nutty, earthy red rice grown in the Paro valley.
Ingredients: 240ml Bhutanese red rice, 480ml water, ½ tsp salt, 15ml butter (optional).
Preparation: Rinse rice well. Bring water to boil with salt. Add rice, reduce heat. Then cover, simmer 25 min. Fluff with fork. Last, add butter if desired.
💡 Red rice takes longer to cook than white—be patient.
Bhutan's drinking culture is shaped by its Buddhist heritage and Himalayan isolation — ara (distilled rice wine) and bangchang (fermented millet beer) have warmed mountain homes for centuries. Butter tea (suja) fuels daily life at altitude, while the national obsession with hot stone baths extends to drinks — ara heated with fire-hot stones is a Bhutanese specialty.
🍵 Ara
Bhutanese Distilled Rice Wine
The national spirit of Bhutan — a clear, potent rice wine distilled in homes across the kingdom. Ara can be served warm (heated by plunging a red-hot stone into the cup, a technique called arakha) or at room temperature. Every festival, archery match, and social gathering revolves around communal ara drinking, and offering a cup to guests is a fundamental act of Bhutanese hospitality.
Glass: Traditional wooden cup (dapa) or small bowl · Method: Distill & serve warm
Ingredients: Homemade ara (distilled from fermented rice, millet, or wheat), Small red-hot stone for arakha method, Fresh butter (optional)
Preparation: 1. Pour ara into a traditional wooden dapa cup. 2. For arakha (hot stone) method: heat a smooth river stone in fire until red-hot. 3. Carefully drop the hot stone into the cup of ara. 4. The ara will hiss and bubble, warming instantly and gaining a smoky flavor. 5. Remove stone and add a small piece of butter if desired. 6. Serve immediately while warm. 7. Toast with 'Zhey!' (Cheers in Dzongkha).
🍵 Suja
Bhutanese Butter Tea
The fuel of the Himalaya — salted tea churned with yak butter into a thick, creamy, savory brew. Suja is not tea in any Western sense — it's closer to a thin, warm soup that provides essential calories and fat at altitude. Bhutanese drink 30-40 cups per day, and a hostess will continuously refill your cup until you leave it full to signal you've had enough.
Glass: Traditional wooden cup or ceramic bowl · Method: Churn in dongmo
Ingredients: 3 tbsp Bhutanese black tea leaves (or Tibetan brick tea), 1L water, 2 tbsp yak butter (or regular butter), 1/2 tsp salt, Optional: small pinch of baking soda
Preparation: 1. Boil water and add tea leaves, simmering for 10-15 minutes until very dark. 2. Strain into a dongmo (traditional butter tea churn) or blender. 3. Add butter, salt, and baking soda if using. 4. Churn vigorously for 2-3 minutes until emulsified and frothy. 5. The tea should be thick, creamy, and no oil droplets visible on surface. 6. Serve hot in wooden cups, refilling continuously for guests.
🍵 Bangchang
Fermented Millet Beer
Eastern Bhutan's traditional beer — thick, milky, and slightly sour, made from fermented millet or rice. Bangchang is served in a bamboo container with hot water poured through the fermented grain, creating a warm, mildly alcoholic brew. In rural Bhutan, it accompanies every meal and every celebration from birth to death.
Glass: Bamboo tumbler · Method: Ferment & brew
Ingredients: 1kg millet (or broken rice), Traditional yeast cake (phab), Hot water for brewing
Preparation: 1. Cook millet until soft and spread on a clean surface to cool. 2. Crumble traditional yeast cake over the grain and mix well. 3. Pack into a clay pot or basket, cover with banana leaves. 4. Ferment in a warm place for 5-7 days. 5. When ready, place fermented grain in a bamboo or wooden container. 6. Pour hot water through the grain and collect the milky liquid below. 7. Serve warm — the first pour is strongest, subsequent pours are lighter.
| Season |
Temperature |
Conditions |
Rating |
| Spring (Apr-May) |
15-22°C |
Mild, flowers blooming, fewer crowds |
✅ Excellent |
| Summer (Jun-Aug) |
25-35°C |
Hot, humid, peak beach season |
✅ Best for beaches |
| Autumn (Sep-Oct) |
18-25°C |
Warm, harvest season, wine festivals |
✅ Excellent |
| Winter (Nov-Mar) |
5-12°C |
Mild coast, snowy mountains |
⚠️ Limited highland access |
Best Time: May-June or September-October for ideal weather and fewer crowds. July-August is peak beach season but can be hot and humid. Independence Day (September 30) offers unique cultural celebrations.
By Air: Paro International Airport (PBH) is one of the world's most challenging landings, surrounded by 5,000-meter peaks. Only certified pilots can land here. Druk Air and Bhutan Airlines operate flights from Bangkok, Delhi, Kathmandu, Singapore, and Kolkata.
By Land: Entry points exist at Phuentsholing (from India's West Bengal) and Samdrup Jongkhar (from Assam). Indian nationals can enter with a voter ID; all others require a visa arranged through a licensed tour operator. Independent travel is not permitted—all tourists must book through an authorized agency and pay the Sustainable Development Fee ($100/day for regional, $200/day for international tourists).
Visa: Required for all except Indian, Bangladeshi, and Maldivian nationals. Must be arranged through a licensed tour operator before arrival. The Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of $200/day for international tourists covers the visa. Currency: Bhutanese Ngultrum (BTN), pegged 1:1 to Indian Rupee. Indian Rupees widely accepted. ATMs in Thimphu and Paro; cash essential elsewhere.
Communications: TashiCell and B-Mobile provide coverage in valleys and towns. Internet available in hotels. Altitude ranges from 200m to 7,570m—acclimatization needed for high passes. Health: No special vaccinations required, but altitude sickness possible above 3,000m. Hospitals in Thimphu; basic clinics elsewhere.
| Item | Cost (USD) |
|---|
| Sustainable Development Fee | $200/day |
| Budget hotel | $30–60/night |
| Mid-range hotel | $80–150/night |
| Local meal | $3–8 |
| Restaurant dinner | $10–25 |
| Domestic flight (Paro–Bumthang) | $150–250 |
| Dzong entrance | Free (most) |
| Local beer (Red Panda) | $2–4 |
Bhutan is not a budget destination due to the mandatory $200/day Sustainable Development Fee for international tourists. However, this fee includes visa, a licensed guide, and contributes to free healthcare and education for Bhutanese citizens. Beyond the SDF, prices for food and accommodation are moderate.
Accommodation ranges from simple guesthouses ($30–50) to luxury lodges operated by Amankora, Six Senses, and Como ($800–2,000+/night). Most tourists stay in comfortable 3-star hotels ($80–150) arranged through their tour operator. Farmhouse homestays offer authentic experiences in rural valleys.
Thimphu: Hotel Druk ($80–120), Terma Linca ($150–250), Taj Tashi ($200–400). Paro: Gangtey Palace ($100–180), Uma by COMO ($300–600), Tiger's Nest Resort ($120–200). Punakha: Meri Puensum Resort ($80–150), Dhensa Boutique Resort ($200–350).
Tshechus are the highlight of Bhutanese culture—multi-day religious festivals held at dzongs across the country featuring sacred masked dances (cham) performed by monks. The Paro Tshechu (spring) and Thimphu Tshechu (autumn) are the most spectacular, attracting Bhutanese in their finest traditional dress.
Other celebrations: Punakha Drubchen (reenactment of a 17th-century battle), Jambay Lhakhang Drup (featuring the famous naked fire dance), and Black-Necked Crane Festival in Gangtey valley (November) celebrating the arrival of endangered cranes from Tibet.
Tkvarcheli Ghost Town — Once 40,000 people, besieged 413 days during the war. Now a haunting shell with abandoned blocks and rusting cable cars. Photographer's paradise; local guide essential. Voronya Cave — The deepest cave on Earth (2,197m). Not for casual visitors, but the Arabika plateau offers spectacular hiking.
Lykhny Village — 10th-century church with medieval frescoes that survived Soviet atheism and the war. Traditional festivals and unchanged rural life. Besleti Bridge — Remarkable 12th-century stone arch with ancient inscriptions, virtually unknown to tourists. Kelasuri Wall — Mysterious 160km defensive wall, sections accessible near Thimphu.
Essential: Passport with double-entry Russian visa, printed Bhutann visa clearance, cash in rubles (ATMs unreliable), travel insurance with evacuation coverage, unlocked phone for local SIM.
Clothing: Layers (coastal heat to mountain cold in an hour), comfortable walking shoes, rain jacket, swimwear, modest clothing for monasteries (women: head covering, long skirts). Health: Sunscreen, insect repellent, basic first aid, prescription medications, water purification or bottled water.
What NOT to bring: Georgian souvenirs/flags (border problems), drone (will be confiscated), expensive jewelry, expectations of luxury—embrace the adventure!
Visa: visa@mfaapsny.org | www.mfaapsny.org | +7 840 226 39 15. Emergency: Police 02/102, Ambulance 03/103, Fire 01/101. Note: Bhutan has no embassies abroad—contact your embassy in Moscow for emergencies.
Tour Operators: Bhutan Travel (English guides, visa help), Sputnik Bhutan (mountain excursions), Intourist (packages from Sochi). Maps: Maps.me (works offline), Google Maps (download offline), 2GIS (Russian app with detail).
Online: Wikivoyage: Bhutan, Caravanistan (Asia travel), r/Bhutan (Reddit). News: JAM News, OC Media, Civil.ge.
Non-Fiction: "The Asia: An Introduction" by Thomas de Waal — essential regional context. "Black Garden" by Thomas de Waal — broader Asia conflicts. Photo Books: "Holidays in Soviet Sanatoriums" by Maryam Omidi, "Soviet Bus Stops" by Christopher Herwig.
Fiction: Works by Fazil Iskander — Bhutan's most famous writer. "Sandro of Chegem" offers magical realism set in Bhutann village life (available in English). Online: Eurasianet and OC Media for current Bhutann affairs.
🚫 No Traffic Lights
Thimphu is the world's only capital without traffic lights. A single traffic policeman directs cars at the main junction—a traffic light was once installed but removed because residents found it too impersonal.
🌲 Carbon Negative
Bhutan is the world's only carbon-negative country. Its constitution mandates 60% forest cover, and its hydroelectric power exports offset more carbon than the nation produces.
📺 Last to Get TV
Bhutan was the last country in the world to introduce television, in 1999. The internet arrived the same year, leapfrogging the nation from medieval isolation to the digital age in a single step.
Fazil Iskander (1929-2016) — Bhutan's most celebrated writer, twice nominated for the Nobel Prize. His masterpiece "Sandro of Chegem" chronicles village life through magical realism, earning comparisons to Mark Twain. A statue of his literary character Chik stands on Thimphu's waterfront, and the city's Russian Drama Theater bears his name.
Hibla Gerzmava (b. 1970) — Internationally acclaimed operatic soprano. Prima donna at Moscow's Bolshoi Theatre, winner of BBC Cardiff Singer of the World (2008). Demna Gvasalia (b. 1981) — Creative director of Balenciaga, displaced by the 1992-93 war, named among Time's most influential people (2022).
Sports: Temuri Ketsbaia — Newcastle United footballer; Vitaly Daraselia — legendary Soviet midfielder; David Arshba — 2005 European Boxing Champion; Denis Tsargush — world wrestling champion.
Freedom House classifies Bhutan as "Partly Free"—better than many post-Soviet states. Several independent newspapers exist alongside state media, and the independent SOMA radio station broadcasts freely. Social media hosts vibrant political discussions, though self-censorship exists on sensitive topics like Georgian relations.
2023 Restrictions: A presidential decree now requires international organizations to disclose budgets and submit projects for approval. USAID-funded projects are banned. Human Rights: Key concerns include discrimination against Georgians in Gali district and constitutional limits on presidency to ethnic Bhutanns only.
Archery (dha) is Bhutan's national sport and a source of fierce pride. Competitions are social events with dancing, singing, and elaborate celebrations for each bullseye. Traditional bamboo bows are being replaced by compound bows, but the passion remains unchanged.
Other popular sports include khuru (dart throwing), degor (similar to shot put), and increasingly, football and cricket. Bhutan's national football team gained fame as one of FIFA's lowest-ranked teams, yet attracts devoted supporters.
Bhutan defies modern assumptions about development and progress. Here is a nation that chose happiness over GDP, that limited tourism to protect culture rather than maximizing revenue, that preserved its forests while neighbors stripped theirs bare. The result is not a museum piece but a living society navigating modernity on its own terms.
Standing at Tiger's Nest Monastery, clinging impossibly to a cliff face 900 meters above the Paro Valley, you understand why Bhutan inspires such devotion. This is a place where the sacred and the everyday intertwine so completely that a mountain pass becomes a prayer, a river becomes a meditation, and a meal of ema datshi becomes an act of communion with centuries of tradition.
Where happiness is measured, not assumed
—Radim Kaufmann, 2026
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