Haiti

Haiti, the world's first Black republic and second-oldest independent nation in the Americas, occupies the western third of Hispaniola. Despite devastating earthquakes and economic challenges, Haiti possesses extraordinary artistic vitality, spiritual depth, and a revolutionary history that changed the world.

This is the country where enslaved Africans overthrew Napoleon's army to create a free nation in 1804—an achievement that inspired liberation movements worldwide. Haitian art, Vodou spirituality, Creole cuisine, and architectural heritage offer experiences found nowhere else, though travel requires preparation and resilience.

"Haiti" comes from the Taíno word "Ayiti" meaning "land of high mountains"—fitting for a country whose terrain rises dramatically from Caribbean shores to peaks above 2,600m. The blue-and-red flag, created by removing white from the French tricolor, symbolizes the union of Black and mixed-race Haitians.

Haitian identity is rooted in revolutionary pride, African spiritual heritage, and creative expression. The national motto "L'Union Fait la Force" (Unity Makes Strength) reflects the solidarity forged in the crucible of liberation.

Haiti covers 27,750 km² of mountainous terrain—80% of the land is hilly or mountainous. The country wraps around two peninsulas separated by the Gulf of Gonâve, with the large island of La Gonâve in between.

Despite deforestation challenges, Haiti retains areas of extraordinary beauty: the mountain fortress of Citadelle Laferrière, the waterfalls of Bassin Bleu near Jacmel, and the pristine beaches of Île-à-Vache. Pic la Selle reaches 2,680m as the country's highest point.

The Taíno people inhabited the island until Columbus arrived in 1492. French Saint-Domingue became the Caribbean's wealthiest colony, built on brutal sugar plantation slavery. By the 1780s, half a million enslaved Africans produced 40% of Europe's sugar.

The Haitian Revolution (1791-1804), led by Toussaint Louverture and Jean-Jacques Dessalines, was the only successful large-scale slave revolt in history. Haiti's independence in 1804 was a world-shaking event that terrified slave-holding powers and inspired generations.

Post-independence, Haiti faced devastating French reparations demands, US military occupation (1915-1934), the Duvalier dictatorships (1957-1986), and the catastrophic 2010 earthquake that killed over 200,000. Despite these trials, Haitian creativity and spirit endure.

Haiti's 11.7 million people are predominantly of African descent, with a smaller mixed-race elite. Haitian Creole—a French-based creole with African and Taíno influences—is the universal language, while French remains the language of education and government.

Vodou, far from Hollywood caricatures, is a sophisticated syncretic religion blending West African spirituality with Catholic elements. Haitian art—vibrant, narrative, deeply spiritual—has gained international recognition. Iron sculpture from Croix-des-Bouquets, sequined Vodou flags, and naïve painting are world-renowned art forms.

Port-au-Prince sprawls across a natural amphitheater rising from the shores of the Gulf of Gonâve, home to roughly three million people in its metropolitan area—a quarter of Haiti's entire population. Founded by the French in 1749, the city became the colonial capital of Saint-Domingue and has served as Haiti's capital since independence. Its name likely derives from a ship, Le Prince, that once sheltered in its harbor.

The city presents extremes. Pétion-Ville, perched on the hillside above, hosts upscale restaurants, galleries, and hotels where Haiti's business elite and international community gather. Below, the densely packed neighborhoods of the lower city pulse with the energy of massive street markets—the Iron Market (Marché en Fer), rebuilt after the 2010 earthquake, remains a landmark of wrought-iron architecture originally fabricated in France. The National Palace, once the seat of government, was destroyed in the earthquake and its rubble has since been cleared.

Cultural life persists despite the challenges. The Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien (MUPANAH) preserves artifacts from the revolution, including the anchor from Columbus's Santa María. The Holy Trinity Cathedral featured world-famous murals depicting Biblical scenes with Haitian faces—tragically destroyed in the earthquake. Street murals, galleries in Pétion-Ville, and live music venues keep the creative spirit alive.

For travelers, Port-au-Prince demands caution due to ongoing security concerns, but also rewards with authentic encounters unavailable in sanitized resort destinations. The city's energy, its markets, its art scene, and the warmth of its people offer glimpses into the real heartbeat of Haiti.

Cap-Haïtien, Haiti's second-largest city with roughly 300,000 people, was once the "Paris of the Antilles"—the wealthiest colonial city in the Caribbean under French rule. Founded in 1670 as Cap-Français, it served as the capital of Saint-Domingue and the epicenter of the revolution. Today, its grid of colonial-era streets, faded pastel facades, and relatively calmer atmosphere make it the preferred base for exploring northern Haiti.

The city serves as the gateway to Haiti's greatest historical treasures. From here, travelers can reach the Citadelle Laferrière and Sans-Souci Palace—both part of the UNESCO World Heritage National History Park. The journey to Milot, the town at the foot of the Citadelle, takes about an hour by road, followed by a memorable ascent on foot or by mule.

Nearby, the Battle of Vertières site commemorates the decisive November 1803 engagement where Haitian forces under Dessalines defeated Napoleon's army, securing independence. The Vertières Monument stands as a tribute to this pivotal moment. Beautiful beaches at Labadee (leased by Royal Caribbean cruise line) and Cormier Plage lie along the coast west of the city.

The Citadelle Laferrière is the crown jewel of Haiti's cultural heritage and one of the most extraordinary structures in the Americas. Built between 1805 and 1820 by King Henri Christophe atop the 900-meter peak of Bonnet à l'Évêque mountain, this massive fortress was designed to defend the newly independent nation against any French attempt to reimpose slavery. It is the largest fortress in the Americas and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982.

The statistics stagger: walls up to 4 meters thick rising 40 meters high, a garrison capacity of 5,000 soldiers with enough supplies for a year-long siege, and an arsenal of 365 cannons—many still in place today, captured from the French, British, and Spanish. An estimated 20,000 workers labored for 15 years to construct it, hauling stones and cannons up the mountainside by hand and mule. The human cost was enormous, and the fortress stands as both a monument to freedom and a reminder of the sacrifices required to build a new nation.

Below the Citadelle, the ruins of Sans-Souci Palace—Christophe's royal residence, modeled on Versailles—offer a haunting glimpse of the brief but ambitious Haitian kingdom. Destroyed by an earthquake in 1842, the palace's remaining walls, grand staircase, and garden layout still convey the extraordinary ambition of a formerly enslaved man who built a kingdom.

Visiting requires a trek from Milot—roughly 90 minutes uphill on foot or 45 minutes by mule (available for hire). The effort is rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the northern coast and surrounding mountains. Go early in the morning to avoid heat and crowds.

Jacmel, a charming coastal town on Haiti's southern coast, is widely considered the cultural and artistic heart of the country. Founded in 1698 on the site of a Taíno village, it prospered as a coffee-exporting port in the 19th century, and its well-preserved Gingerbread-style colonial architecture—ornate wooden fretwork, wrought-iron balconies, and pastel-painted facades—earned it a place on Haiti's UNESCO Tentative List.

Jacmel's Carnival, held in the weeks before Lent, is legendary—often described as more authentic and artistic than the larger Port-au-Prince celebration. Enormous papier-mâché masks and sculptures, many depicting Vodou spirits and fantastical creatures, are paraded through the streets in a explosion of color, music, and communal celebration. The town's artisan tradition produces these carnival masks year-round, and visitors can watch craftspeople at work in small workshops throughout the town.

The town also boasts excellent beaches at Raymond-les-Bains and the striking Bassin Bleu—a series of natural cobalt-blue pools and waterfalls hidden in the mountains above town, reachable by a scenic hike. The Jacmel Film Festival, launched in 2004, has become an important regional cultural event celebrating Caribbean cinema.

Despite Haiti's challenges, the country possesses some of the Caribbean's most beautiful and least-developed beaches. Labadee, a private peninsula on the northern coast near Cap-Haïtien, is leased by Royal Caribbean International as an exclusive port of call for cruise ships. Its pristine white sand, turquoise waters, and lush surroundings offer a manicured paradise—though one entirely fenced off from the surrounding communities.

More authentic beach experiences await elsewhere. Île-à-Vache (Cow Island), off the southern coast near Les Cayes, offers tranquil beaches, fishing villages, and a pace of life untouched by mass tourism. Cormier Plage, west of Cap-Haïtien, provides a lovely stretch of sand with basic amenities. Kaliko Beach, north of Léogâne, and the beaches around Montrouis on the Côte des Arcadins offer relatively accessible coastal escapes from Port-au-Prince.

Haiti's surrounding waters teem with coral reefs, particularly around La Gonâve island and the southern coast. Diving and snorkeling are excellent but infrastructure is limited—bring your own equipment or arrange through established operators. The annual migration of humpback whales through the Windward Passage (January–March) offers spectacular whale-watching opportunities.

Haitian Vodou (not "voodoo"—a term laden with Hollywood distortion) is a rich, complex spiritual tradition that developed among enslaved Africans in Saint-Domingue. It blends the religious practices of Fon, Yoruba, and Kongo peoples with elements of Roman Catholicism imposed by French colonizers. Officially recognized as a religion in Haiti since 2003, Vodou is practiced by a significant portion of the population, often alongside Christianity.

At the heart of Vodou is the relationship between practitioners and the lwa (spirits or deities), who serve as intermediaries between humanity and Bondye (God). Ceremonies involve drumming, singing, dancing, and the drawing of elaborate sacred symbols called vèvè on the ground. An oungan (priest) or manbo (priestess) leads rituals where participants may experience spirit possession—considered a sacred honor, as a lwa "rides" the individual to communicate with the community.

Vodou played a pivotal role in Haitian history. The legendary 1791 ceremony at Bois Caïman, led by the oungan Boukman, is credited with sparking the revolution. The tradition has deeply influenced Haitian art, music, literature, and medicine. Sacred sites include the Saut-d'Eau waterfall (where thousands gather each July for ritual bathing), the caves of Souvenance, and numerous temples (peristyles) throughout the country.

For respectful visitors, attending a Vodou ceremony offers an extraordinary cultural experience. Always seek an introduction through a trusted local contact, bring a small offering, and observe without photographing unless explicitly permitted.

Haitian cuisine is a bold Creole fusion of African, French, Taíno, and Spanish influences—hearty, flavorful, and built around rice, beans, plantains, and spicy seasonings. The foundation of most Haitian cooking is épis (or epis), a green seasoning paste of scallions, thyme, parsley, garlic, peppers, and citrus juice that flavors virtually everything.

National Dishes: Griyo (Griot) — marinated pork shoulder braised then deep-fried until crispy, served with pikliz and bannann peze (fried plantains). Considered Haiti's national dish. Diri ak Djon Djon — rice cooked with dried black mushrooms unique to Haiti, producing a jet-black, earthy, aromatic dish. Diri ak Pwa (rice and beans) — the everyday staple, often topped with a stew or sauce.

Other Favorites: Pikliz — fiery pickled cabbage, carrot, and scotch bonnet relish accompanying every meal. Soup Joumou — hearty pumpkin soup served on January 1st to celebrate independence (enslaved people were forbidden from eating it). Tasso — spicy fried goat or beef. Lambi — conch prepared in various ways. Akasan — thick, sweet corn-based porridge for breakfast.

Beverages: Rhum Barbancourt — Haiti's world-renowned rum, aged up to 15 years, rivaling the finest French cognacs. Crémas (Kremas) — sweet, creamy coconut-rum drink, Haiti's answer to Irish cream. Prestige — the national beer. Clairin — raw sugarcane spirit used in Vodou rituals and everyday drinking.

Diri ak Djon Djon

Black Mushroom Rice

Rice cooked with dried black mushrooms—jet black and uniquely Haitian.

Ingredients: 240ml rice, 120ml dried djon djon mushrooms, lima beans, épis (green seasoning paste), butter, thyme, cloves.

Preparation: Soak mushrooms, save black liquid. Sauté épis, add beans. Add rice and mushroom liquid. Season with thyme, cloves. Cook until done. Stir in butter.

💡 The mushroom soaking liquid creates the distinctive black color.

Griot

Fried Pork — Haiti's National Dish

Twice-cooked pork—braised then fried until crispy.

Ingredients: 500g pork shoulder (cubed), sour orange or lime + orange juice, épis, scotch bonnet pepper, oil for frying.

Preparation: Marinate pork in citrus and épis overnight. Simmer in marinade until tender. Drain and dry completely. Deep fry until golden and crispy. Serve with pikliz and bannann peze (fried plantains).

💡 The two-stage cooking is the secret—tender inside, crispy outside.

Pikliz

Spicy Pickled Slaw

Fiery pickled cabbage relish—served with everything.

Ingredients: ½ cabbage (shredded fine), 2 carrots (julienned), 1 onion (sliced), scotch bonnet peppers, white vinegar, cloves, peppercorns.

Preparation: Shred vegetables finely. Add whole scotch bonnets. Pack in jar with spices. Cover with vinegar. Refrigerate at least 3 days. Keeps for weeks.

💡 The longer it sits, the hotter and better it gets.

Haiti has no wine production. The Caribbean nation's tropical climate, with intense heat and seasonal hurricanes, precludes grape cultivation. There are no vineyards and no winemaking tradition.

Haiti's spirit heritage is centered on Barbancourt rum — one of the Caribbean's most respected rum houses, founded in 1862 by Dupré Barbancourt using double-distillation methods learned in Cognac. Barbancourt is unique in the Caribbean for producing rhum agricole-style spirit from fresh sugarcane juice rather than molasses, then aging it in Limousin oak barrels — the same wood used for Cognac. The Barbancourt 15-Year Réserve du Domaine is a masterpiece of Caribbean rum, smooth and complex. Traditional Haitian beverages include kleren (clairin), a raw, unaged cane spirit produced by small artisanal distillers across the countryside, deeply embedded in Vodou ceremonial practice. Wine is available only in Port-au-Prince's luxury hotels and a handful of restaurants in Pétion-Ville, imported at prohibitive cost.

Tropical with temperatures averaging 25-35°C at low elevations, cooler in the mountains. Two rainy seasons: April–June and August–October. Hurricane season runs June–November.

The best time to visit is December through March—dry season with comfortable temperatures. The southern coast and mountain areas receive more rain than the arid northwest.

Toussaint Louverture International Airport (PAP) in Port-au-Prince receives flights from Miami, New York, Fort Lauderdale, and Caribbean destinations. Cap-Haïtien has a smaller airport with limited international service.

Internal transport includes tap-taps (colorfully painted buses/trucks), domestic flights, and hired vehicles. Road conditions vary dramatically. For the Citadelle, travel to Cap-Haïtien then arrange local transport.

Visa: US, Canadian, and EU citizens enter visa-free for 90 days. Passport validity of 6 months required. Travel advisories should be checked before visiting.

Money: Haitian Gourde (HTG). US dollars widely used alongside gourdes. Limited ATMs outside Port-au-Prince. Budget $40-60/day. Bring cash as credit card acceptance is limited.

Haiti is affordable for basic expenses but mid-range and luxury options carry a premium due to import costs and limited supply. Budget travelers can manage on $30-50/day, mid-range on $70-120/day. International-standard hotels and restaurants are significantly more expensive than local alternatives.

Port-au-Prince has a range from basic guesthouses to hotels like Hotel Montana and Marriott. Jacmel offers charming guesthouses in colonial buildings. Île-à-Vache has beach resorts. Cap-Haïtien and Citadelle area have growing tourism infrastructure. Standards vary—research thoroughly.

Carnival (February/March), especially in Jacmel, features elaborate papier-mâché masks and musical parades rivaling any in the Caribbean. Rara season (Lent through Easter) fills streets with processional bands playing homemade instruments. Fête Gede (November) honors the dead with Vodou ceremonies.

Citadelle Laferrière—the Western Hemisphere's largest fortress, built by freed slaves atop a 900m peak. Bassin Bleu's cascading turquoise pools near Jacmel. The gingerbread houses of Port-au-Prince—ornate wooden Victorian-era mansions unique to Haiti. Île-à-Vache's undeveloped Caribbean beaches.

Essential: Valid passport (6+ months validity), cash in US dollars (small bills), comprehensive travel insurance with medical evacuation, unlocked phone for Digicel SIM, copies of all documents stored digitally.

Clothing: Lightweight, breathable fabrics. Modest clothing outside beach areas (Haitians dress smartly). Sturdy walking shoes for Citadelle trek and rough roads. Rain jacket or poncho. Swimwear. Light layers for mountain areas (Kenscoff/Furcy can be cool). Health: Strong sunscreen, insect repellent (DEET-based), water purification tablets, basic first aid kit, prescription medications with documentation, anti-diarrheal medicine.

Useful Extras: Headlamp/flashlight (power cuts are constant), portable phone charger, water bottle with filter, French/Creole phrasebook, snacks for long road journeys. What NOT to bring: Excessive jewelry or electronics, large amounts of visible cash, drone (permit required, rarely granted), any expectation of reliable schedules—embrace "Haiti time."

Emergency: Police 114, Fire 115, Ambulance 116. Embassy contacts: US Embassy in Port-au-Prince (+509 2229-8000), French Embassy (+509 2999-9000). Register with your government's citizen services before traveling.

Tour Operators: Voyages Lumière (English-speaking guides, northern Haiti focus), Haiti Tours (cultural immersion), Experience Haiti (community-based tourism). Maps: Maps.me (works offline—essential), Google Maps (download offline maps before arriving), OpenStreetMap Haiti community.

Online: Visit Haiti (visithaiti.com), Haiti Wonderland (haitiwonderland.com), Wikivoyage: Haiti, Lonely Planet: Haiti. News: Le Nouvelliste, Haiti Libre, AlterPresse, Miami Herald Haiti coverage.

Non-Fiction: "The Black Jacobins" by C.L.R. James — the definitive account of the Haitian Revolution. "Mountains Beyond Mountains" by Tracy Kidder — following Dr. Paul Farmer's medical work in Haiti. "Haiti: The Aftershocks of History" by Laurent Dubois — essential historical context.

Fiction: "Breath, Eyes, Memory" by Edwidge Danticat — a powerful novel of Haitian identity and diaspora. "Masters of the Dew" by Jacques Roumain — Haiti's most celebrated novel. "The Farming of Bones" by Edwidge Danticat — the 1937 Parsley Massacre. "The Dew Breaker" by Edwidge Danticat — stories of Duvalier-era trauma.

Vodou: "Tell My Horse" by Zora Neale Hurston — a classic 1930s account of Vodou practices. "The Serpent and the Rainbow" by Wade Davis — the ethnobotany of zombification.

Discover Haiti through these carefully selected documentaries and travel videos. From revolutionary history to vibrant culture, these films capture the country's extraordinary spirit.

Toussaint Louverture (1743–1803) — "The Black Napoleon." Born enslaved, he led the Haitian Revolution and became governor of Saint-Domingue before being captured by the French and dying in prison. His military genius and political vision inspired freedom movements worldwide.

Edwidge Danticat (b. 1969) — Acclaimed novelist and memoirist, born in Port-au-Prince, whose works including "Breath, Eyes, Memory" and "The Dew Breaker" have brought Haitian experiences to global literary audiences. MacArthur Fellow. Wyclef Jean (b. 1969) — Grammy-winning musician, founding member of The Fugees, born in Croix-des-Bouquets. Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960–1988) — Pioneering neo-expressionist artist of Haitian and Puerto Rican descent.

Dany Laferrière (b. 1953) — Haitian-Canadian writer, member of the Académie française since 2013—the first Haitian and first Canadian to receive this honor. Garcelle Beauvais (b. 1966) — Actress and model born in Saint-Marc. Jacques Roumain (1907–1944) — Haiti's most celebrated novelist, author of "Masters of the Dew."

Football (Soccer): Haiti's national team, "Les Grenadiers," qualified for the FIFA World Cup in 1974 in Germany—holding eventual champions Germany to a respectable 4-1 scoreline and famously scoring against Italy. The team competes in CONCACAF qualifying and has won the Caribbean Cup multiple times. The domestic league features clubs including Racing Club Haïtien, Violette AC, and Don Bosco FC.

Basketball: Growing rapidly in popularity, with Haitian-Americans like Samuel Dalembert and Skal Labissière reaching the NBA. Athletics: Haiti has sent athletes to multiple Olympic Games, with particular strength in sprinting. Cockfighting: While controversial, gaguère (cockfighting) remains a deeply rooted cultural tradition across rural Haiti.

Haiti has a vibrant but embattled media landscape. Dozens of radio stations operate across the country—radio remains the primary information source for most Haitians. Le Nouvelliste, founded in 1898, is the oldest daily newspaper. Television stations include Télé Haiti, Télé Ginen, and several cable channels. Online media has grown significantly, with outlets like Haiti Libre and AlterPresse providing coverage in French and Creole.

Press freedom faces serious challenges. Journalists have been targeted by gangs, and several have been killed in recent years. The Committee to Protect Journalists regularly highlights the dangers facing Haitian media workers. Despite these risks, Haitian journalists continue to provide critical coverage of political events, gang violence, and humanitarian conditions, often at great personal cost.

Share your Haiti photos! Send to photos@kaufmann.wtf to be featured.

Haiti — Pearl of the Antilles

The spirit of Haiti in one frame

Citadelle Laferrière

UNESCO World Heritage fortress

Jacmel

Colonial charm on the southern coast

Port-au-Prince

Haiti's bustling capital

📷 Submit Your Photos

📤 Submit Photo

Haiti defies easy summary. It is simultaneously the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere and one of the richest in cultural heritage. It is a nation that achieved the impossible—the overthrow of slavery by the enslaved themselves—yet has struggled under the weight of that revolutionary legacy, foreign interference, and devastating natural disasters ever since.

To write about Haiti only as a place of poverty and crisis would be dishonest. To ignore those realities would be equally so. What strikes every visitor who ventures beyond the headlines is the extraordinary vitality of the Haitian people—their creativity, their humor, their spiritual depth, and their unshakeable dignity in the face of circumstances that would break lesser nations.

This page aims to honor both truths: Haiti's genuine challenges and its genuine magnificence. If you visit, go with open eyes, respect, and humility. Leave room for the country to surprise you. It will.

— Radim Kaufmann, 2026