Mauritania

Where the Sahara meets the Atlantic, Mauritania's cuisine reflects both its Berber-Arab heritage and the harsh beauty of desert life. Nomadic Moors have perfected the art of sustaining food—millet, dates, camel milk, and dried meat that can survive weeks of travel across endless dunes. In coastal Nouakchott, Atlantic fish arrive fresh each morning, transformed into the beloved thieboudienne. Tea ceremony here is sacred: three glasses of sweet mint tea, progressively stronger, accompany every significant conversation. The cooking is elemental—fire, sand, iron pots—yet the flavors are surprisingly nuanced.

Thieboudienne

Fish and Rice in Tomato Sauce

Mauritania's national dish arrived from Senegal but has become thoroughly its own. A whole fish is stuffed with a fiery herb paste called rof, fried until the skin crackles, then simmered with vegetables in a tomato-tamarind sauce. The rice cooks in this broth, absorbing every layer of flavor. Families gather around a single large platter, each person eating from the section in front of them.

Ingredients: 1 whole white fish (500g, such as grouper or sea bass, cleaned), 150g broken rice (or basmati), 2 tablespoons tomato paste, 1 tablespoon tamarind paste, 1 small cabbage (quartered), 1 small eggplant (halved), 1 carrot (peeled, halved lengthwise), 1 large onion (sliced), 3 cloves garlic, 1 Scotch bonnet pepper (whole), 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, 600ml water, Salt. For the rof (herb paste): 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, 4 cloves garlic, 1 small onion, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon cayenne, Salt to taste.

Preparation: Pound all rof ingredients in a mortar until you have a coarse green paste. Cut deep diagonal slashes into both sides of the fish and press the rof firmly into each cut—be generous. Heat oil in a large heavy pot and fry the stuffed fish until golden on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Remove carefully and set aside. In the same oil, fry sliced onion until deeply caramelized, nearly brown. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes until it darkens. Add tamarind paste, garlic, and the whole Scotch bonnet (don't pierce it unless you want serious heat). Pour in water and bring to a boil. Add cabbage, eggplant, and carrot, then simmer covered for 15 minutes. Remove vegetables to a plate and keep warm. Add rice to the pot, nestling it into the broth. Place the fish on top of the rice, cover, and cook over low heat for 20 minutes until rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid. Arrange on a wide platter: rice as a bed, vegetables around the edges, fish proudly in the center.

💡 The prized portion is the crusty rice stuck to the pot bottom, called xoon. Scrape it out and offer it to honored guests.

Zrig

Millet and Buttermilk Drink

This thick, nourishing drink has sustained Saharan nomads for millennia. Millet flour mixed with tangy buttermilk and sweetened with dates creates something between a smoothie and a porridge—incredibly satisfying in desert heat. Mauritanians drink zrig throughout the day, especially during the Ramadan fast-breaking meal. The slightly fermented tang cuts through the sweetness perfectly.

Ingredients: 80g millet flour, 250ml buttermilk (or plain yogurt thinned with water), 200ml cold water, 4 soft Medjool dates (pitted), 1 tablespoon honey (optional), Pinch of salt, Ice cubes for serving.

Preparation: Toast millet flour in a dry pan over medium heat for 3 minutes, stirring constantly, until it smells nutty and turns slightly golden—this removes any raw taste. Let cool completely. Put dates and a splash of the water in a blender and pulse until roughly chopped. Add cooled millet flour, buttermilk, remaining water, honey if using, and salt. Blend on high for 2 minutes until completely smooth with no gritty texture remaining. Taste and add more honey or dates if you prefer it sweeter. Chill for at least 30 minutes—zrig is best very cold. Stir well before serving over ice, as the millet settles. Some prefer it thicker, almost spoonable; add less water for that consistency.

💡 Nomads carry dry millet flour and reconstitute it with whatever liquid is available—camel milk, goat milk, even plain water in emergencies.

Medfouna

Sand-Buried Stuffed Bread

The "buried bread" of the Sahara is legendary—a sealed parcel of spiced meat encased in dough, traditionally baked beneath hot desert sand and embers. The exterior turns crackling crisp while steam trapped inside keeps the filling succulent. Berber nomads have made medfouna for centuries; today it's the centerpiece of celebrations. This oven adaptation captures the spirit.

Ingredients: For the dough: 300g all-purpose flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 150ml warm water. For the filling: 250g ground lamb (or goat), 1 medium onion (finely diced), 2 cloves garlic (minced), 1 teaspoon cumin, 1/2 teaspoon coriander, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, Pinch of cayenne, 4 dates (pitted, chopped), 2 tablespoons chopped almonds, 2 tablespoons butter, Salt and pepper, 1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tablespoon water (for glaze).

Preparation: Make the dough by combining flour, salt, oil, and water, kneading for 5 minutes until smooth. Cover and rest while preparing the filling. Brown the lamb in butter, breaking it into small pieces. Add onion and cook until softened. Stir in garlic, all spices, and season well. Remove from heat and fold in chopped dates and almonds. Let cool slightly. Divide dough in half. Roll one piece into a 25cm circle on a floured surface. Spread the meat filling over the center, leaving a 3cm border. Roll the second piece to the same size and drape over the filling. Press edges firmly to seal, then crimp decoratively. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment. Score the top with a knife in a traditional pattern and brush with egg wash. Bake at 200°C for 25 minutes until deeply golden. Rest 5 minutes before cutting into wedges.

💡 For authenticity, preheat a cast iron pan in the oven and bake the medfouna directly on it—the bottom will crisp like it does in hot sand.